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Saturday, November 4, 2017

The Mother Road. Part 1, Illinois



If I do get stopped by the police”, I said to Olis, the EagleRider representative handing me the motorcycle's documents, “Do I say, ‘haven’t you got anything better to do,’ like I would in England”? Olis looked at me over the top of his glasses. A lady sitting behind the counter, tapping away at a computer, laughed. It was, I admit, a pretty naff thing to come out with. The truth is I don't think I would say such a thing to any police officer, not now or at any time in the past, although I like to think I'm the sort of person who might. Maybe I just wanted to suggest something comforting to imagine.





We were in Chicago, my wife Sue and me, about to start a trans-USA road trip along Route 66, riding a rented Electraglide. We'd travelled into the city from O'Hare airport a couple of days before on the CTA, the Chicago rail network. Like with all city transport systems these days, an automated announcement ran continually telling passengers to report anything suspicious; in this case, to a CTA employee. I looked about the carriage. A man a few seats along sat rocking violently backward and forward, mumbling something incomprehensible. Suddenly, he stood up and took off his shirt from beneath a sleeveless reflective waistcoat, without actually removing the waistcoat. He then put the shirt back on, on top of the waistcoat. I noticed some badges on its sleeves – CTA, they said.



Chicago is a wonderful city. Clean, interesting, with lots to do, see and eat. We spent a day walking around the attractions, visiting the Naval Pier and Adams Street, the official start of Route 66 (we had decided not to ride back into the city from EagleRider's base near the airport, when we set off on the bike the following day), a building with bits of masonry stuck to it taken from famous buildings from around the globe, and the Willis Tower. Here we went up to the observation deck and stepped out on each of the glass bottomed pods that stick out from one side of the building. Never before had I looked down between my feet to the tops of skyscrapers. It was a strange sensation felt by most people there judging by the various reactions we saw to the thought of stepping out into the sky. Some crawled onto the glass while others closed their eyes and ran the few strides it took to get out there. Some simply walked but everyone seemed gripped with the same idea, that this was something you had to do. But once done, and the initial shock and novelty had disappeared, almost everyone looked to the distance and gazed over the city, way beyond the buildings that had fixated them only moments before.




Look out!” It was the the lady back at EagleRider speaking, the one sitting behind the counter, but who was now getting onto her feet, quickly. “The French are coming.” I looked out the window, as a coach pulled up outside. Would be Easy Riders piled onto the footway. I imagined a biker gang on a cruise ship. In their immaculate retro leathers and jeans, all designed and decorated to give the impression of something subversive, these ageing wild ones looked remarkably like us. A line of Harleys and Indian motorcycles awaited them along with a guide, luggage van and spare motorcycle. We mounted our Electraglide and headed off, hoping to beat the rush. Left and left again I had in my mind from a glance at the map on Sue's phone, but the second turning I took too early and we ended up on an interstate. A toll booth and slip road later and we were back where we started. I tried again, this time successfully negotiating the first couple of junctions of our 2700 mile journey, and we headed towards Joliet and The Mother Road.




The Harley thumped along beautifully, doing what I wanted it to do – be American. But America had changed. Sue had been over more recently than me but from the time of my last visit I really noticed a difference. Cars had shrunk, in the same way ours back home had grown, so that now there seemed little difference in size. And just like ours they'd homogenised, so that no matter who the manufacturer the same curvy, edgeless shape dominated each category. Trucks still had bonnets but even they had softened. Gone were the enormous square grills, flat panels and split screens. The wild west had obviously been tamed and it seemed the hard rigs were now only to be found in the Australian outback. This to me more than anything symbolised the change we were to see everywhere we went: big, functional and individual replaced by normalised, efficient and corporate. Well, almost. Travelling through Illinois on that first day we passed alongside a railway for several miles. Every couple of hundred metres or so a road crossed at ninety degrees. So, every couple of hundred metres or so there was a stop line for us and a crossing for the track. As we rode along, changing down and slowing for each stop line the crossings began to sound their bells. A train was approaching from behind. For each crossing it sounded its whistle. The clanging of the bells, the long note of the train's whistle and the Harley's engine revving up and down made wonderful music - American music that went way back. The train eventually passed us, all two miles of it.

We stopped for lunch at a cafe decked in Route 66 memorabilia, not long out of suburban Chicago, before continuing on four lane carriageways until the road finally narrowed to two lanes and we were riding between trees. The city had disappeared and towns became their own places. The weather turned warm and sunny (it was early September) and we began to feel a bit overdressed, although, I have to say, not just because of the heat. Every motorcycle we saw had two things in common: they were Harley Davidsons and their riders were dressed in the same gear - jeans, vests and sunglasses. I think our crash helmets must have appeared a bit over the top, let alone the armoured jeans, leather jackets and motorcycle boots. 

There were a number of Route 66 attractions in Pontiac (dubbed mural city because of its large wall painted tributes to The Mother Road), where we stopped briefly, but the French convoy had somehow overtaken us and was now massing at the museum, so we moved on. The day finished with a section on the interstate before we arrived in Springfield for our first night. We were tired. We showered, got some food at a nearby supermarket for a room picnic and slept.

Our hire was a self drive tour, which meant that although each night's accommodation was pre booked the itinerary for each day was up to us. EagleRider had provided a guide pamphlet with a suggested route largely based on interstate use, which we of course, largely ignored. (As a result their predicted daily mileage under estimated the miles actually travelled.) All things considered, it worked well. Each hotel was well equipped and comfortable, although often a little way out of town. But to me it was all about the ride and I think neither of us had the energy for exploration once we'd stopped for the day. With a predicted daily mileage varying from just under 200 miles to just under 300, each day's run looked, on paper, a doddle. But it wasn't always. The extra distance travelled by following the older, historic route, the heat and the manoeuvring of a heavy laden motorcycle  along back roads and through the many small towns took its toll. We didn't feel it during the day, when, with permanent grins the journey gripped us, but in the evening when we switched off we were, at times, pretty drained.

The following morning, when I was loading the Electraglide on the hotel's forecourt, a pair of Harleys caught my eye, each owned, it turned out, by one of a couple of pals who were travelling together. We got chatting and I learnt a lot about how to use the Electrglide's satnav and cruise control. They were interesting blokes, one a retired firefighter (riding a badged 'firefighter' red Harley) the other ex navy. Older, die hard Harley riders and very enthusiastic about the new technology their bikes had to offer, these two encapsulated something of modern America. There was enthusiasm for progress but a real yearning for the American dream, or at least the thought of it.

The advice given in most guide books about Route 66 was to stay close to the railway, if in doubt, as the old alignments tended to use the same routes. They also say that there are a number of different alignments, depending on date, and give basic maps of each. In the end, the 'rules' for us were to follow the historic signs whenever possible, choosing a 1950s alignment when a choice was given, use a map downloaded onto Sue's iphone (having a navigator and second pair of eyes on the pillion was a godsend) and use the Harley's satnav. This last point was purely a coincidence, as we didn't specify - or pay for  - a GPS when we hired the motorcycle.

Like many coincidences the Harley's satnav was a happy one because although we couldn't set it to follow Route 66 the road was occasionally shown (labelled 'historic route 66') and, more importantly, we could set the shortest route to our hotel at the end of the day. And, on this the second day, set the quickest path through St Louis. This was another aspect of the Mother Road: if you followed it meticulously through a city the size of St Louis you'd need a whole day. So, we opted for the interstate and watched the Gateway Arch slip by. 


















Before the city we had stopped at the Chain of Rocks bridge, a now pedestrianised crossing of the Mississippi River. Once part of Route 66 the ageing steelwork was a reminder of a time now gone forever and I wasn't too disappointed the bridge had been bypassed - how could this beautiful outmoded mass of steel cantilevers and trusses be seen carrying anything other than big fin winged cars and square grilled trucks. We met a British husband and wife travelling the route on their Gold Wing trike, shipped over for the trip. Cheaper than hiring, apparently, and equipped and set up to their liking, as only your own machine can be.





















Still in Illinois we stopped at another Route 66 attraction, a small disused gas station, or maybe, a building made to look like one. It wasn't always easy to tell. Typical of these places - small, apparently struggling to survive - there was something of the old road. On the surface it was tacky souvenirs; underneath, but in plain view, were the true reminders of the past. Languishing in the two foot tall grass surrounding the building were several GMC tractor units. Unusual in their bonnet-less, cab-over configuration, these old wagons had definately seen better days.






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